August Update



We left Baume in the Jura on a stormy, thundery Sunday in late July. It was the first rain we’d seen for at least a month - a welcome relief from all the heat and perfect for travelling! We drove along the green and cool looking Alps on the Swiss border (spotting the wooden chalets and cuckoo clocks) and spent one night in a little town called Bonneville - where a hail storm had wreaked havoc with the trees. Monday was fine and sunny again, and we soon reached the Mont Blanc tunnel - something Milo had been looking forward to for days. The tunnel took us into Italy and cost 37 euros for the hi tech pleasure. It lived up to Milo’s expectations by its length, its curves, its fancy lighting etc.
Once in Italy, lovely mountain scenery all around, but we couldn’t get the feeling of this new country yet. A different language, but at least one similar to Spanish, so we could guess a lot. We drove a lot that day, having decided to head for the coast around Genova, rather than go across the north to Slovenia. Our first night in Italy was spent ‘on the road’ having followed signs for mythical campsites and finally finding the largest, most expensive and noisiest holiday-ghetto-village-hell. We spent the night in a car park and had spaghetti under the neon lights. Feeling brighter the next day, but desperate for the sea by now, boiling in the van, we arrived at our chosen destination of Levanto. A lovely coastline, but not quite what we’d hoped, judging from the hundreds of beach umbrellas and people covering the main grubby and stony beach. Too far gone to care, we stripped off and went in. Big waves were crashing all around, so it was not a good spot for bathing, but I was so intent on making sure Milo was safe, I went in with my prescription specs on, and promptly got swept off my feet, dragged underneath and my glasses wrenched off my face by a wave.

Things got better, as we found the lovely old part of town where the very pleasant campsite was located and even though it was horrendously expensive (37 euros a night almost 4 x the French price) we were glad to be there. At either side of the main town beach were bays and coves we could cycle to, lovely sea, excellent for swimming and snorkelling, so we could relax and unwind after our journey. It was lovely staying in a (small) town for once. We got to work sampling the delicious food - fresh fruit, veg and herbs, foccacia and pizza and the gorgeous ice creams in every flavour imaginable- and just soaking in the Italian-ness of it all. Dom found somewhere he could plug the lap top in so we were all sorted. We took to wandering around the markets and squares, being tempted by all sorts of nice things. I treated myself to a lovely Italian linen sundress and skirt (we found that food and clothes were not expensive in Italy) and felt relatively cool and stylish at last! The crystal clear waters here got us hooked on snorkelling - you could see 10 metres down and the fish were all around. Milo started swimming without his armbands here, his confidence in the water is increasing all the time and he loves swimming underneath. As for Finn, he is a seal, ducking and diving around, snorkelling, doing underwater acrobatics; he is becoming a very strong swimmer in all three strokes - crawl, breast and backstroke.

We ended up staying in Levanto a week, we got the train one day along the coast as there are 5 villages (Cinque Terre) you can only go to this way; train rides plus tunnels pleased Milo greatly. Could have stayed in Italy longer (how could a foodie like Dom not have been here before?) but we were spending too much and needed to head east.

We decided to take the ferry from Ancona to Split, Croatia, partly because of the distances involved, but also for the boys who were desperate for another ferry experience. The only way to do it at short notice was a night crossing, without cabins/seats. We had chosen the busiest period when all the Italians go on their holidays - everywhere was packed, including the ferry. We spent the night out on deck - it was so warm we didn’t need our sleeping bags. Arrived in Croatia on 5th August at 7am having had very little sleep and feeling a bit spaced out. Suddenly we had to deal with the Kuna (euros all the way so far) and another language (luckily most Croations seem to speak some English). Drove around in a daze and found a lovely beach full of senior citizens of Split taking the early morning waters, we joined them and immediately felt better.

The centre of Split is built in and around the amazing remains of a 4th century roman palace - marble slabs underfoot and an air of dilapidation and grandeur combined. The market was packed, as well as the regular stallholders, little old ladies selling a pile of peaches and cucumbers or grapes and home made olive oil, wine and various home-made brews in unlabelled plastic bottles. We wandered around ineffectually, not knowing how much anything was, but managing to make a few purchases, including borek (cheese pastry) and other delicious things from the bakery. After consulting the Tourist Office,we headed south towards Omis and found a campsite on the beach at Dougi Rat. We caught up on our sleep and generally relaxed as much as we could surrounded by Poles, checzs and croats. Had to move on as the main road thundered too nearby (it runs alongside the coast all t he way down to Dubrovnik). So, took a chance at this height of the holiday season and got on a car ferry to the nearest island Brac. The campsite we’d earmarked in the quiet peaceful area was full, so we were forced to spend a night in the young people’s wind surfing and disco mecca of Bol. We slept fitfully to the resounding open air disco, hastily moving back to the other side of the island the next day,where fortunately a place was vacated and we were in - a few yards from the beach on the edge of the fishing village of Sutivan. We’ve managed to spend two relaxing weeks here, perfecting the art of snorkelling and swimming and cycling. The adriatic is the most perfect sea, completely clear, refreshingly cool, lots of underwater life. Eating fresh fish straight from the boat- squid and shark at bargain prices. We can breathe a sigh of relief here as it is cheap (like us). We live like kings.

Finn has had his first bout of homesickness while we’ve been here. We think we’ve done well to get this far without it.... He’s thinking of returning to the house and friends and his things with anticipation. He’s still enjoying himself, but I think the August heat has got to us all. August has been the most difficult month so far, with the relentless heat and the hordes of people, its hard to find peace and quiet and hard to do anything. With shade and water nearby you can function, but we are looking forward to being able to do more once it cools down. Milo still lives everyday as it comes, although he’s looking forward to getting his train track out when he gets home, and to being cold (although he says he isn’t looking forward to wearing jumpers and stuff). At the moment they live in their beach shorts and sleep naked in the tent. Despite my diligent applications of sunscreen they have turned a golden brown, Dom has gone his usual dark brown (he’s mistaken for an Italian without us in tow, everyone assumes we three are blonde Germans). Even me who hides my delicate freckled self from the sun has changed colour gradually. No other English around here. We’re quite a rarity. The boys were getting desperate for a friend when a german boy who speaks english turned up, thank goodness.

Moving on tomorrow, up northwards. Will do more later.

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